It took three full days but we think we finally saw and/or toured all 35 historic ruins in Antigua! Only a couple continue to be functioning churches. Our hotel was the convent that built the arch so that the nuns could cross over to the other half of the convent without any public contact or being seen. The clock chimes every 15 minutes but not as you might expect. It can be anywhere from a couple of chimes to a full 48 bongs at 15, 30 or 45 minutes after the hour. Yes, all night long!
Went to an authentic Antiguan dinner show, such a delight to watch.
The wind blew open the shutters in our room one afternoon and we know that Bella explored the large garden area behind our hotel because the bed (and her fur) were covered with juniper twigs when we returned. Ate our last dinner in Antigua at a very nice steakhouse across from one of the beautiful ruins.
The picture with the yellow walls, is the entrance to our room. One of the afternoons, right outside our door, an Antigua band serenaded Bella. The yellow and white ornate church, is the only church that survived the 1773 earthquake.
Drove to Lake Atitlan and took a death defying dirt road that eventually passed through a couple of towns along the water. Some really nice places along the way. The lake has three large volcanoes on the south side and is often compared to Lake Como in Italy and considered one of the most beautiful lakes in the world. Was a bit cloudy but we got a sense of the place.
Continued on to Chichicastanengo. In 1545 the Spanish built a church directly on top of a Mayan temple platform. The original 18 steps, representing each month of the Mayan calendar, still remain. Mayans are allowed to burn candles and incense on the steps and inside the church as well as sacrifice chickens!!! Really eerie feeling having pagan rituals in a church. There were lots of candles and incense burning when we were there and a bunch of devout Catholics crawling on their knees the entire length of the church and back while praying – they do both sides of the aisle. Several nice large wooden alters but the paintings on each panel are almost totally obscured by soot. Directly across from it is the Iglesia del Calvario, a smaller version of the main church. Did not have an altar per se but rather a large glass coffin with Christ inside placed where an altar would be and surrounded by candles and flower petals. Main part of the church had a number of large stone slabs covered with candles and a larger area in front where incense is burned in large quantities.
Right next to the two churches is a vast warren of alleyways that make up the marketplace. Famous for its size and diversity. Almost spooky inside, given how narrow and dark in many places. A large number of candle shops and pretty much everything else you can imagine being sold.
Toured the sprawling cemetary of Chichicastenango. Does not appear to have any rules about where someone can be buried. The graves with the openings are where incense would be burned. There are several large slate platforms for Mayan ceremonies and we watched a shaman doing his thing, burning incense, chanting and then ultimately lighting the candles around the incense (ashes???)
Stopped in Guatemala City to see the cathedral and the national palace. Both very nice but the national palace is an exceptionally impressive building. Tess says the cathedral is the nicest we have seen anywhere since we’ve been cruising. The pilasters in front of the church are carved with the names of thousands of the Mayan people killed by the Guatemalan government during their civil war.
The lady sitting sidesaddle on the motorcycle has a baby on her back! Have seen that many times now. Got my first haircut in 10 years from someone other than Tess. Cost $2.50 including a nice tip. Returned to the same hotel in Suchitoto for our last night and treated ourselves to the suite where the queen of Spain slept four years ago!
I included some pictures of the common road hazards. Interesting note, El Salvador uses American currency but we have never seen a one dollar bill, only one dollar coins seem to be used.
We plan to sail (motor) on Wednesday for a 24 hour trip to Puesta del Sol Nicaragua.
